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Oil Painting Materials and Supplies

Tuesday, April 22, 2008

The Canvas

Canvas is the most popular surface used in oil painting. It is traditionally made from linen, but since it is relatively expensive, cotton will also do. The canvas is commonly prepared for painting in several steps, which can be done at home for better bargain buy: first, the canvas is stretched across a wooden frame called the stretcher (or strainer), and is tacked or stapled tightly to it. Next, the artist usually applies a ground (see Oil Painting Tips and Techniques ) to protect the canvas from chemical reactions with the paint. Gesso, which is calcium sulfate mixed with animal glue, is commonly used as the ground for the canvas. It must be stressed here that a canvas, whether it is of the stretched type or the board type, must be primed prior to oil painting or else the paint will eat away at the substrate. Other surfaces that can be used in oil painting include wooden panels, linoleum, pressed wood, and cardboard.

The Brushes

Brushes are made up of natural or synthetic hairs gathered up in a metal band, called the ferrule, which can either be aluminum, nickel, copper, or nickel-plated steel. Using a brush is the most popular way to apply paint (or ink) onto a surface, as well as prepare paints by mixing them on a palette. They can be either stiff or soft, and both have their pros and cons. Oil paint brushes are usually sable of bristle. Since turpentine can easily damage synthetic bristles, these types of brushes are not suitable for oil paintings. The different types of brushes include: Round, Flat, Bright, Filbert, Fan, Angle, Mop, Rigger.

The Paints

Oil paintings are named after the type of paint used: a slow-drying paint containing organic oils. The most popular oils include linseed oil as well as oil from poppies, walnuts, and soy beans, which are cheaper substitutes. Pigments in oil paints may be either mineral salts (lead, zinc, titanium, cadmium), earth types (sienna, umber), or synthetic types. Oil paint is considered relatively more complex to use than acrylic or tempera; it is water-resistant and uses toxic solvents like turpentine or benzene. Likewise, the pigments are notably toxic in nature (lead, cadmium). In addition, linseed oil is known to ignite spontaneously. Your options for buying oil paints include: fast-drying oils in tubes, water-mixable oils in tubes and pans or blocks, and oil bars, which come in stick form but are not oil pastels. Paints labeled with "hue" (e.g., cadmium red hue) at the end are artificial ones — they are prone to fading, don't keep their color during mixing, and get muddy easily.

The Palette

A palette is simply a thin piece of board, usually with a thumb hole, which holds oil paints that an artist mixes together.

The Palette Knife

A palette knife consists of a flexible steel blade with no sharpened cutting edge. A symmetric palette knife with a rounded tip is usually for mixing oil paints on a palette, while an asymmetric knife has a pointed tip and used is for painting on the canvas. Certain oil painting techniques make use of palette knives.

The Thinner

Thinners dilute oil paint, most often to clean your brushes and palette. The most common substance for thinners is turpentine; it keeps oil paints oily but usually has a strong odor. Using mineral spirits also keeps oil paints watery. These materials must be handled with care in a well-ventilated area. It is advised not to use paper, plastic, or styrofoam cups as containers for mediums and thinners.

The Mediums

Mediums also dilute color in your oils, like thinners. Some make oil paints dry faster, increase gloss or transparency, or even reduce overdone thinning. Check the label for what the medium you're buying actually does. The most popular medium out there is linseed oil. While there are arguments about whether or not linseed oil actually causes certain light-colored paints such as white, including blue, to noticeably yellow over time, using poppyseed oil for these hues makes for a safe alternative. Again, as mentioned above: it is advised not to use paper, plastic, or styrofoam cups as containers for mediums and thinners. Mediums include oils (e.g., linseed, walnut, poppy, sunflower, lavander, clover), varnishes (Dammar, Mastic), balsam (e.g., Larch, Venetian, and Strasbourg turpentines, Canada and Copaiva balsam, rectified turpentine), and driers (cobalt, turpentine).

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Oil Painting Techniques and Terms

Monday, April 21, 2008

Alla Prima/Direct Painting
Painting not done in layers (which is the traditional way); literally "at once" in Italian.

Body Color
Adding white to the colors in the painting.

Broken Color
Painting small, disjoint areas of color, as in Impressionism or Pointillism.

Brush Marks/Knife Marks
Using brushes or knives to highlight surface textures.
ing "lean" oil (less oil than turpentine in the paint) paint, which dries faster, under a "fat" oil paint (pure paint) layer

Frottie
Glazing with opaque colors, or a colored glaze mixed with white; using semi-transparent glaze or film

Glaze/Glazing
Applying a transparent medium that changes the color or texture of the surface, especially to regulate tones; must be completely dried up before a new layer is applied on top of it.

Grisaille
Painting entirely in monochrome gray; a type of underpainting of an oil painting.

Hatching
Applying cross-hatching brush strokes

Impasto
Applying thick paint such that marks and strokes by a brush or knife are visible; for textural effects and glazes

Masking
Using adhesive material to cover an area or create boundaries for where one is currently painting

Painting to Completiong in Sections
Performing Alla Prima by section; runs the risk of a disjointed-looking painting if careless

Pulling
Absorbing a surface using a cloth or sponge to "pull" back the underlying surface color

Rubbing
Using fingers to manipulate the paint on the canvas

Scoring
Scratching a painting to reveal an underlying layer; usually done to achieve the effect of skin and hair in paintings.

Scumble
Creating a broken color effect by loosely dragging the paint with a brush; different from the frottie in that it is thick but broken; usually uses a fairly dry brush

Spattering
Flicking a brush to transfer the paint on it onto the canvas

Teasing
Manipulating (wet) paint on the canvas

Three-Tone
Using light, medium, and dark tones only

Tonking
Having a sheet of paper absorb excess oil in a painting; named after British artist Henry Tonks

Toned Ground
Applying a stain over a priming (i.e., ground) before one begins to paint; commonly used colors

Using Ground
Allowing a portion of the ground to see through the finished painting

Varnish
Applying a protective film over a painting that results in either a glossy or matte surface

Verdaccio
Painting in greenish-gray colors for later layers in an oil painting; a type of underpainting; effective for creating flesh tones; popular among Renaissance artists

Washing
Thinning out thicker or purer paint layers

Wet-on-wet
Literally wet paint used alongside wet paint; produces a lighter look when the colors mix; "painting from light colors up"; leaves no time for drying up and is thus a quicker method of painting

Wet-on-dry
Literally wet paint used on already dried up paint

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Oil Painting Tips

Friday, April 18, 2008

Before you even begin to paint, be familiar with the materials you're working with; that is, storage conditions, disposal, et cetera. Paints and other substances you'll be working with are toxic and hazardous, so be careful when handling them.

It is better to pick out a few expensive, high-grade oil paints with pure pigments than buy many cheap oil paint hues whose colors fade quickly.

Leave a border around your painting to give an allowance for framing or even experimentation.

You can save oil paint thinner by letting the muck settle to the bottom of your container, leaving you with clean thinner at the top.

Whatever the oil color arrangement is on your palette, simply remember to keep those hues in the same place next time you paint so that it will be a lot more comfortable for you.

Use a knife for mixing oil colors, and not brushes, since they're much easier to clean. Cleaning a palette knife, in turn, can be done by scraping off paint using a razor blade after dipping the knife in paint remover fluid.

You can clean your brushes with kerosene after oil painting.

Fill thinner waste with water then keep it closed airtight. Place oil painting supplies such as this one in a cool place to avoid them suddenly igniting.

It is said that when artists once mixed acrylic oils with oil paints, they got ill and even died. Remember that oil painting has some serious hazards when handling the needed.

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How to Buy Oil Paintings

Thursday, April 17, 2008

Things to Remember Before Buying

Buying an oil painting is a personal experience; you must remember your own purpose for setting out to buy a work of art. While you may not necessarily be aesthetically equipped to make what people perceive as an "intelligent" decision, keep in mind that in the end it is your painting you are buying, not theirs. It is you who must be comfortable with the chosen piece. Be wise enough, nonetheless, to consult other people, but to do not blindly agree with their opinions, or shut out yours completely from the decision-making process.

How much does originality and authenticity mean to you? For contemporary artists, it is possible for you to ascertain first whether the oil painting you're buying is indeed one-of-a-kind and original. You can request for the artist's signature or a certificate of authenticity and detailed information about the artwork.

Of course, this may not be applicable if you plan to buy oil painting reproductions. In this case, a sensitive eye regarding a reproduction's faithfulness to the stroke and finish of the original work is of primary concern. Other things to note: what dimensions will your painting be — can you control this factor? Who are the artists behind the oil painting reproductions — how skilled are they?

Also be sensitive about the ordering process you'll be encountering — is it convenient and reliable enough for you? How about confirming your order? Shipping and taxes? Money-back guarantees? Ask the seller and the artist about these things, if possible. Do you homework.

Shopping for oil paintings is just like shopping for a good outfit; uninformed and rash decisions are not the way to go, and may only disappoint you in the end.

Your Options

Nowadays, buying oil paintings is as convenient as checking email — you can order online. Like buying paintings "offline," surfing the web to find that perfect oil painting for you has its advantages and disadvantages, so weigh them carefully. The ordering process is quick and simple, but you may be prone to online scams. Thousands of paintings are available (especially with reproductions), as well as personal sites of the artists themselves from which you can buy original directly from there, but viewing paintings from a computer monitor is still a completely different experience from viewing them in a gallery or exhibit.

When you order an oil painting, there are several ways with which they can send it to you. One is the traditional framed painting. Unframed paintings may also be shipped unstretched; they are usually rolled into a container and then shipped. Stretched paintings have the canvas literally stretched and pulled over a set of stretched bars and then stapled to them. These three types can affect the shipping costs of your painting.

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